Sam and I recently took a trip to Ireland and ever since I had first visited Ireland in 2015, I’d wanted to go back and stay at Ashford Castle. Located in Cong in County Mayo, Ashford Castle is the site of a historic castle dating back to 1228. Ashford has a storied history but it was purchased in 1852 by Sir Benjamin Lee Guinness (of Guinness brewing) who greatly expanded the grounds and castle. In 1939 the castle was first opened as a hotel. In 2013, the castle was purchased by Red Carnation Hotels who own and operate the castle today.
Ashford Castle is more than a traditional castle that’s been turned into a hotel, it’s an experience that ties together modern comforts with a rich history of traditional Irish culture and no shortage of famous visitors and wonderful food and drink. To say I was excited for this part of our stay in Ireland would be an understatement. We actually booked our stay through Amex as that affords a number of perks such as the possibility of an upgraded room (which we got), a food credit, late checkout (which we didn’t use), and a few other things.
As you drive in the main entrance of Ashford Castle, your greeted by a gateman at a large stone gate who asks for the name on the reservation. As you pass through that gate, and the gatemen radios your name ahead, you begin a scenic drive through a wooded area and pass the golf course. Finally, you come upon the main castle gate and bridge where you meet another gateman (who will wonder who you are if you gave the wrong name for the reservation like we did). They’ll admit you, and then you drive over the bridge, through one final gate and pull up to the main castle entrance.
Once out of the car we were greeted by the doormen bellmen who unloaded our car while we went into check-in. The reception was busy at the time so we were taken to the seating area by the fire for a few moments. Once checked in, we were offered a welcome beverage which included several options, including a daily cocktail. After check-in we would have been taken up to our room, but we had a pressing appointment on the grounds and wanted to get lunch first. Ashford features a number of dining options as well as unique activities you can partake in while you’re there. I’ve described both below.
- Activities
- Falconry - A truly amazing experience, the Ireland School of Falconry is located on the castle grounds and enable you to do a private hawk walk with your party and a guide. We both carried our own Harris’s Hawk for this. As seen in the picture below, each person is gloved up and given a hawk to walk with. During this time the guide will take you through the woods talking about the birds themselves, falconry, and providing ample opportunities to send and retrieve the birds and take memorable pictures and videos. Other places in Ireland also provide opportunities to practice falconry though I’ve yet to see a place that can offer the comparable experience with the grounds or expertise located here.
- Walking the Hounds - This is a no-cost activity at Ashford though we would have happily paid for it. Multiple days a week, the dog handler (and owner), James, takes his Irish Wolf Hounds, Mulligan, Molly, and Dougal along with his Irish red and white setter, Shay, and at least while we were there a labrador retriever as well, on a walk through the nearby Kinlough Woods. This is a short walk away from the castle and they provide wellies so you don’t muddy up your shoes as well as rain gear. The wolf hounds are enormous dogs and it’s quite fun to walk around with them and, as they slowly warm up to you, give them some pets. James is quite humorous and is an excellent guide and extremely knowledgeable about the dogs. We loved this and would highly recommend it.
- The Spa - No luxury resort would be without a spa and Ashford doesn’t mess around. The spa at Ashford has actually won Ireland’s Best Hotel Spa for 8 years running. They offer a variety of services as well as a relaxation pool, reflection room, and a fitness center. We took advantage of a massage the the Ashford Ritual while we were there as well as the fitness center. It was a wonderful way to relax while enjoying lovely views of the grounds.
- Walks and Hikes - The grounds at Ashford are quite substantial consisting of forests, gardens, ponds, and manicured paths. While you’ll almost certainly have to walk around some of these areas if you partake in the activities, it’s worth intentionally walking around and enjoying the grounds. The gardens between the castle and falconry school are particularly nice and feature fun hidden path ways for you to discover and enjoy. Additionally, if you want to pop into the nearby town of Cong, there are some substantial forests you can walk through, even a tower to discover, if you want.
- Other Activities - There are plenty of other experiences to be had at Ashford including lake cruises, picnics, golfing, clay shooting, and many more. While we didn’t partake in any of these other ones, I’m certain based off the experiences we did enjoy, they would be wonderful.
- Dining
- George V Dining Room - Hosting dinner seven days a week, George V is the fine dining restaurant at Ashford. The menu is extensive, the wine list is long, and the food is absolutely delicious. This meal was easily one of the highlights of our trip including the cheese cart at the end. Highly recommended at least once during your stay.
- Tea at the Connaught Room - Naturally Ashford would offer afternoon tea and that takes place in The Connaught Room. This room is stunning with a hugely impressive Donegal Crystal chandelier. Tea itself is delicious between the scones, tea sandwiches, and beautiful desserts. One of the best afternoon tea’s I’ve ever had and definitely the best setting. Don’t be afraid to not finish your food as they’ll pack up your leftovers in an equally amazing togo box.
- The Drawing Room - Upon first arriving, we didn’t have very much time before we had to get to falconry so we were pointed to the Drawing Room for lunch. The menu features a wonderful variety of traditional lunch items and some with a more Irish flair and the windows all look out on to the beautiful back grounds of the castle, pond, and lake.
- Cullen’s at the Cottage - Cullen’s is one of the few options outside of the castle and offers a more relaxed dining experience with a wide selection of seafood amongst other items. This was a fun alternative to the more refined George V. We ordered a bottle of wine that we didn’t finish with dinner so they provided us with cute Ashford cup to take for our walk back to castle.
- Prince of Wales Bar - Named for the Prince of Wales who visited the bar and later became George V of England, this is the sort of bar featured wood panelling, fine fabrics, enveloping furnishings, and traditional fire place is the sort of lounge you’d dream of having in your hunting lodge or mansion (we all have those, right?). The cocktails designed in house are intricate and delicious. The whiskey (and other liquor) list is extensive. The service is friendly and great. The smoked manhattan and smoked old fashion will be set before you with the smoke pulsing away from your beverage really creating an amazing sense of atmosphere. When staying, it’s a must to stop by for at least one drink.
- Breakfast - Also hosted daily in the George V dining room, an extensive breakfast buffet with a la carte items is offered. The daily ham that was hand carved was divine and possibly the best ham I’ve ever eaten. The a la carte selection is quite large as well. I think my highlight of that menu was the kippers. On the buffet, everyone will find something they can like but I have to give high marks for the fresh honeycomb.
- Wine Tasting in the Cellar - Previously the original kitchen in the early days of the castle, the wine cellar is now the home of a rather extensive wine collection. This is a singular place to enjoy a guided wine flight with a sommelier. We did a Bordeaux style tasting while we were there with a sommelier from Bordeaux as well. If you like wine, this is a wonderful place to enjoy some. Note that there is some arrangement where the owners of Ashford also own a vineyard in South Africa so this is one of the few places you can try this wine.
- Other Options - While the above is quite a breadth of dining options, Ashford has even more options both in the castle itself, as well as at the nearby lodge.
Above we’ve walked through what to do and where to eat while you’re there. It’s worth highlighting another pillar of staying at Ashford: the service. You can stay at the nicest place in the world, eat the finest food, and do the most amazing things, but if the service isn’t on par with the place, the food, or what you’re doing, the experience is never going to excel. Thankfully, across the board the service at Ashford castle is exceptional. From the first gate you pull up to to the person who loads up your car and opens the door, you’ll feel well taken care of and catered to.
